Dual Mod a Mad Catz Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition using Toodles ChImp

Before you begin the modification, it is pretty important that you understand how the ChImp works. This diagram should help you understand exactly what is going on:

The red lines indicate where you will be adding wires. All of the black lines represent the wires already present inside the Fight Stick. Not all wires/cables/connections are represented here, to make it easier to follow.

The USB power comes in to the ChImp which shares it with the Xbox 360 PCB. The data that is transmitted back out through the cable is shared as well. That’s why the arrows point both directions in the diagram. You will move the stock USB cable from the Xbox 360 PCB to the ChImp and then solder 5 new wires from the ChImp to the Xbox 360 PCB to create this connection.

The USB carries the ground signal between the two boards (ChImp and Xbox 360 PCB) already, so the only thing left to do is wire up the signal from each of the buttons and the joystick. You will use a “Solderless trick” to connect the A,B,X,Y,LB,RB,LT,RT,Back and Start buttons. You could also use the trick to piggyback the Joystick harness for the move directions, but in this tutorial I just spliced the wires into each other. The Guide button was the only button I soldered; I connected it to the PCB up near the Turbo/Guide control panel.

So what’s happening here?

Once it’s all connected up, here’s how it basically works:

Xbox 360:

  1. USB input on the ChImp receives the data input that it’s connected to an Xbox 360.
  2. The ChImp passes the data handling directly over to the Xbox 360 PCB. Basically ignoring the ChImp altogether as if it were never installed.

PlayStation 3/PC:

  1. USB input on the ChImp receives the data input that it’s connected to a PlayStation 3 or PC.
  2. All of the button inputs connected to the ChImp are responsible for triggering button presses on the PS3 or PC. The Xbox 360 PCB is ignored. Turbo functionality does not work since that’s built into the Xbox 360 PCB.

* If you want  to use the Xbox 360 PCB on a PC, hold down LK, MP, HK while plugging in the USB cable.

Step 1 – Remove Top Plate

Step 1 - Open top plate

Use a hex key to remove the 6 screws on the top of the joystick and lift open the top.

Step 1b - Remove Top Plate

To make it easier to work on, unhook the cable that hooks up the Sanwa JLF (joystick) and all of the quick disconnects hooked up to the Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons. You should write down which colored wires go to which buttons. If you didn’t, don’t worry, it’s written on the punch down, and here’s what color mine were:

X = red
Y = orange
LB = yellow
LT = blue
A = black
B = brown
RB = green
RT = purple

Keep in mind, that’s for the Marvel vs. Capcom one and the button locations are changed from the standard Tournament Edition sticks.

Step 2 – Remove Xbox 360 PCB

Step 2 - Remove 360 PCB

Unhook all of the cables from the Xbox 360 PCB with the exception of the USB cables, which are soldered directly to the board. Remove the 4 screws that hold the board to the case to make it easier to work on. You may want to mark which ribbon cables go where since some are the exact same size.

Step 3 – De-solder the USB Cable

Step 3 - De-solder the USB cable

De-solder the 5 wires that make up the USB cable (red, white, green, black, and thick black). Just heat up the soldered connection with your soldering iron until it looks like it’s melting. Then use a solder suck to remove the solder. You’ll have to do it a few times. Also try pulling on the wire from the other side as you heat up the connection.

Step 3b - USB Cable De-soldered

Here you can see the 5 wires removed from the Xbox 360 PCB.

Step 4 – Solder the USB cable to the ChImp

Step 4 - Solder USB to ChImp

Solder the 5 wires from the USB cable to the proper locations on the ChImp. Just poke the wires through and solder them carefully on the back side. Make sure that you don’t use too much solder that it overlaps the other holes, that would connect them together.

Step 5 – Add USB wires to the Xbox 360 PCB

Step 5 - Add USB wires to Xbox 360 PCB

The USB connection between the original 360 PCB and the ChImp is shared, so put some wires back on the Xbox 360 PCB that will eventually be properly connected to the ChImp. This process is exactly the same as Step 4, poke the wires through and solder the other side.

I chose to use blue and green for my data lines. Blue for – data and green for + data.

Step 6 – Connect the Xbox 360 PCB USB to ChImp USB

Step 6 - Connect Xbox 360 PCB USB to ChImp

Solder the blue (XD-) and green (XD+) lines to the ChImp and use the screw downs for the black (ground) and red (VCC) wires. The USB is now connected to both PCBs.

Step 7 – Attach Button Wires to ChImp

Step 7 - Attach button wires

Use the “Solderless trick” as described in ShinJN’s YouTube video:

Once you have the wire sharing the same connection, connect the other end to the ChImp using the correct screw down.

Marvel vs. Capcom vs. other Tournament Editions

It’s worth nothing that the button configurations on the Marvel vs. Capcom Mad Catz FightStick Tournement Edition are different than the “standard” Tournament Editions. The handling of the triggers and shoulder buttons are slightly different.

Marvel vs. Capcom Xbox 360 Tournament Edition:

Standard Xbox 360 Tournament Edition:

I wanted to use the “standard” PS3 layout, so I connected the wires as follows:

X = 1P
Y = 2P
LB = 3P
LT = 4P
A = 1K
B = 2K
RB = 3K
RT = 4K

Alternatively, if you have a Marvel vs. Capcom edition as well, to maintain labeling you might want switch up the shoulder buttons/triggers:

LB = 4P (L1)
LT = 4K (L2)
RB = 3P (R1)
RT = 3K (R2)

And if you have a standard Xbox 360 Tournament Edition, then you can probably ignore most of that. The point is to be mindful of where you’re connecting the buttons to the corresponding points on the ChImp.

Step 8 – Attach Joystick Directional Wires

Step 8 - Strip Joystick Harness Wires

Use a wire stripper and an Xacto knife to remove the outer plastic around the 4 directional wires. DO NOT cut the wires, only remove the coating.

You don’t need to strip the ground, since the ChImp is already getting it’s ground signal through the USB wires we already connected.

Step 8b - Solder Directional Wires

Solder the 4 directional wires that will attach to the ChImp to the stripped areas of the harness.

Unnecessary, Random Fact: The colors correspond to the stock JLF harness colors.

Right = Green
Left = Yellow
Up = Orange
Down = Red

Step 8c - Electrical Tape Joystick Harness

It goes with out saying, but the JLF harness piggy-back should be covered with electrical tape.

Next, just like the buttons, screw the 4 directional wires into the proper locations on the ChImp.

Step 9 – Solder the Guide/Home Button Wire

Step 9 - Solder Guide/Home button wire.

Here it is, the only button wire you will solder and the only solder connection you need to make to a stock PCB (besides the USB relocation).

Solder a wire to the XGUID pin on the top middle of the PCB shown above. Then connect the other end to the Home screw down on the ChImp.

Step 10 – Mount ChImp and Clean Up

Step 10 - Connect All Wires to ChImp

It’s all connected, but it’s a mess!

Clean Up - Solderless Button Connections

I used a zip tie to organize the wires that are connected to the button wires using the “solderless trick”.

Clean Up - Tape Directional Wires

I used some tape to gather the directional wires together. Some heat shrink tubing could have made this look nicer.

Step 11 - Mount ChImp

Use a small screwdriver to mark the ChImp’s hole locations in the plastic. Then use a drill bit to drill through the plastic and a few small screws to hold the ChImp in place. Make sure to move any wires and components out of the way before drilling. Also, clean up the plastic shavings.

Use 2 to 4 spare screws to mount the chimp to the plastic using the holes you just drilled. Make sure you route the wires cleanly and out of the way.

Also, remember to screw the Xbox 360 PCB back down, if you haven’t already.

Step 11 – Reassemble!

Step 11c - All Done!

Reconnect the buttons and joystick harness. Route the wires carefully so that they are out of the way when you place the top back in position. Screw the 6 hex screws back on and you’re all done!

Congratulations, you now have a dual moded Mad Catz FightStick Tournament Edition using minimal soldering!

Any questions?

Post in the comments and I’ll get you an answer!

129 Responses to “Dual Mod a Mad Catz Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition using Toodles ChImp”

  1. boxor 28 November 2012 at 6:03 AM #

    thank you very much man 🙂

  2. me 19 February 2013 at 9:41 PM #

    Hi Donovan, I have a madcatz TE “s” for PS3, and it won’t work on a PC because of some nvidia chipset on motherboard. If I dual mod into 360. Is it gonna work for all PC?

    • Donovan 8 March 2013 at 10:43 PM #

      Yeah, you’d think at least one of the PCBs would be compatible with a PC. 😉

  3. Rey 5 October 2013 at 8:17 PM #

    Hello. I would like to wire my guide button to the back button on my Madcatz te. How would I go about it? I’m not sure what Solder points to use.

  4. Ayruz 31 January 2015 at 5:09 PM #

    Hello, Would this work on SF4 Round 1 TE arcade stick?

  5. Ayruz 31 January 2015 at 5:12 PM #

    Hello, Would this work on any arcade stick?

    • Donovan 1 February 2015 at 9:19 PM #

      Yes, providing you knew the pinouts for the PCB and/or punchdown. I used the same technique on a Mad Catz VS and a Hori VLX.

  6. Foxindarian 9 March 2016 at 7:34 AM #

    Hi! I have tried this mod, but with the harness solderless trick for almost all connections except the USB (even the stick and the Home button).

    I think besides those connections, I’ve done everything equal to your tutorial… but my TE still only works as a 360 TE :(, My PS3 says “Unkown USB device” and the PC recognizes it as a 360 TE.

    It seems like the Chimp is forcing a passtrhough to the 360PCB, but I don’t know what’s the reason.

    Could this be caused by those connections?


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