Vewlix TE Complete Guide

June 8th, 2010 Update: A PDF of the Vewlix Tournament Edition plans is now available, courtesy of Chris (x24), for those not SketchUp inclined.

Alright folks, this is it: the 2nd to last complete post discussing my Vewlix Tournament Edition arcade cabinet. I’ve had a lot of questions over the last few months, and this is my attempt to compile everything into 1 concise this-is-everything-i-can-possibly-tell-or-show-you post.

So, let’s get started:

One of your most valuable resources is my Flickr Photo Gallery. I made the mistake of not promoting it more. I took photos every day during the project and all of them have titles and most of them have helpful captions. This should give you a ton of insight into the project.

Choosing components:

  • MDF, 32″ Sony Bravia, PlayStation 3, MadCatz TE Fight Sticks covered in Worklog 01
  • More components and prices are discussed in Worklog 03
  • Using your own (different) TV w/ my plans is discussed in this reply to Michael

Creating your plans:

Beginning construction:

Sanding, Priming, Painting, Lacquering:


  • One of your most valuable resources is my Flickr Photo Gallery. I made the mistake of not promoting it more. I took photos every day during the project and all of them have titles and most of them have helpful captions. This should give you a ton of insight into the project.


  • I used the official Japanese Vewlix move list, a Japanese, fighting system and move list sheet, and a Japanese PlayStation 3 move list. All of which can be downloaded from the Official Japanese Street Fighter IV page.
  • I’m told the above link has removed the move lists, so download them (mirrored on this site): Command list for 360/PS3, Vewlix compartment PDF, General arcade PDF.
  • I was going to edit the above files to translate them into English, but it became unreadable at the size they needed to be. Since the move motions were the most important to me, I just left them as-is.
  • I created a Vewlix Tournament Edition logo for the marquee to tie the Mad Catz Tournament Edition sticks into the cabinet more. I had it printed at a local sign shop. You can download it from this reply to Anthony

Send me your projects:

I’ve had several people show me their works in progress and I continue to be blown away. When you have finished your project, please link it here or send me an email to donovan [at] donovanmyers [dot] com. I would love it if you could get someone to take a picture of you sitting in front of your finished cab, preferably with your favorite game on the screen (doesn’t have to be SF4, BlazBlue, KoFXII, and Tekken 6 are all on the way). That way I can create a post devoted entirely to everyone else’s projects and use that photo as your link. If you’re shy, I’ll understand, a finished cab all alone is cool too.

Continuing resource:

From now on, this page will be the main resource for the Vewlix Tournament Edition project. Please comment with all your questions that don’t apply to any of my other blog posts and I will answer them. Heck, just post all of your questions on this page anyway. That will save me the trouble from updating this page with a link to your question/answer.

Many thanks to everyone, keep up the awesome work.


36 Responses to “Vewlix TE Complete Guide”

  1. Gpo23 1 July 2009 at 7:19 AM #

    Great page to know where to find the useful information! Thanks a lot !

  2. Thomas Brown 1 July 2009 at 12:28 PM #

    Did you spray paint the red marquee?

    • Donovan 1 July 2009 at 1:41 PM #

      Yes. I chose to use some red Pactra Polycarbonate paint that is used to paint Radio Controlled car bodies because it has some flex to it and sticks well to acrylic. I did that (besides already having it on hand) so the paint would not flake off due to any flexing.

      You’d probably be safe using any old spray paint though.

  3. Anthony 7 July 2009 at 12:35 AM #

    For those of you that want to use a wider 32″ TV, I cut side caps out of 1/2″ MDF then routed out the space need for the frame. This will give you the option of all 32″ TV’s. After cutting and routing out the caps, route the sides of the caps with the same bit you used on the sides. (45 chamfer bit)

    I didint like the 32XBR9 because the majority of the HDMI’s were on the side.

    I went with the top of the line Samsung now on sale for 799. It’s firckin beautiful.

    Huge thanks to Donovan as usual!

    • Anthony 7 July 2009 at 1:00 AM #


      I am still doing fine tuning and have most of the Cabinet disassembled. However, I have added a few photos that help explain my last post.

      • Donovan 7 July 2009 at 8:54 AM #

        Excellent additions Anthony! Your cabinet is coming along nicely.

        Thanks for letting me know about the XBR9, I’ve been watching it on Amazon and it’s down to $778 and I’ve been tempted a few times to pick it up. Which model Samsung did you end up going with?


  4. Anthony 7 July 2009 at 11:24 AM #

    The Samsung model is LN32B640. This is the same as the LN32B650, only marked differently for Best Buy. Honestly, the picture wipes the floor with the XBR9.

    I am looking forward to Worklog 7. I have a top finished, but I am not 100% satisfied with it.

  5. Anthony 12 July 2009 at 5:21 AM #

    Another artwork question.

    Are the move lists on the speaker board and the board below the TV stickers?

    This appears to be the case. So, if they are stickers, would the sign shop print these as well?

    Do you remember the dimensions you used when printing these?

    I can see the finish line…

    Thanks again!


  6. Anthony 27 July 2009 at 7:50 PM #


    I was able o get the Vinyl sicker done at a local real estate sign shop for $4.00. (Kinko’s was $35.00)

    I am however having difficulties getting the other stickers done properly. Kinko’s will print the stickers, but they are not glossy. They want to laminate the sticker and the final product was less than desirable.

    So at this point, I have the control panel, and vinyl VewLix sticker in place.

    What can you share with us regarding the other two stickers? Did you use an online shop?

    Thanks again!


    • Donovan 28 July 2009 at 8:26 AM #

      Hey Anthony,

      I didn’t make the big move lists and what-not stickers. I just had them printed on regular paper.

      My wife has a large format printer (Epson Stylus Photo 1400) that I used for the console move list and the “battle system” one. I had my wife get the long move list that fits in the compartment printed at her school’s print shop. That one just sits in the compartment with the plexiglass over it. The other ones are double sided taped to the cabinet.

      You could probably use a standard sized printer and piece together the pieces very carefully and it shouldn’t be too noticeable. Just split the print at the border of a character’s box.


  7. Thomas 9 August 2009 at 9:09 PM #

    Congratulations on the completion of the SF4 cab. This is incredible. I would really like to have one, but I’m not a DIY guy; so is there a way to have it constructed? Are the plans detailed enough that they can be followed for replication?

    • Donovan 12 August 2009 at 9:16 AM #


      Sorry, but I haven’t created any plans besides offering the Google SketchUp file and the articles on this website.

      If I were going to create something that would be a PDF of actual plans someone could follow, I would have to charge for it because of the time involved.

      However, if anyone in the community feels like making one or has already made one, I have no problem with it being made available.

      Also, don’t sell yourself short. This could be a good project to tackle with a family member or a friend. You’ve got to start somewhere to become a DIY guy — unless you’re completely adverse to some rewarding experiences.

      Good luck,

  8. Brian 17 August 2009 at 11:13 AM #

    I am seriously considering attempting this with a friend..

    I already have the ps3 and Madcatz fight sticks, could you give me a rough estimate of how much money you spent on all the non-electrical parts?

    • Donovan 17 August 2009 at 11:17 AM #

      $145.23-ish. I think I may have missed some things in the list, like the black track I used to hold the marquee in place. But I can’t think of anything besides that at the moment.

      You can see the full rundown on Worklog 03.

  9. Brian 17 August 2009 at 11:55 AM #

    Thanks for the quick response, I hadn’t thoroughly browsed your blog, I’ll make sure to do so before asking any other questions.

    Inspiring work by the way.

  10. Inkvbvs 23 August 2009 at 7:47 PM #

    I was wondering how you hooked up your audio system to the PS3. I saw that you used 4″ car speakers because they’re flush mount. I’m just wondering how to integrate that into the system. Would a home stereo receiver be able to take a pair of car speakers?…

    • Donovan 24 August 2009 at 8:48 AM #

      Yes, a stereo receiver should be able to work just fine with a pair of car speakers.

      I have always used a 2.1 computer speaker set with the subwoofer based on Kevin Steele’s write up on his website, Retroblast. My TV allows you to feed it an HDMI signal (from the PS3) and will then send sound out of the TV to an external receiver. The output is the stereo mini plug, so it makes it very easy just to hook up a set of computer speakers.

      If you read the article I linked, it should answer most of your questions.

      Good luck!

      • Inkvbvs 24 August 2009 at 10:12 AM #

        Thanks for your reply. The information helped a lot. I’m pretty much making the exact system you’ve made to include a PC as well. Adding the PC also adds the task of figuring how to share the sound, controllers and display. I’ll be posting some pictures when I’ve made more progress. Thanks again…

  11. Thomas 2 September 2009 at 6:11 AM #

    Hey Donovan,
    Thought about what you said, and decided to build the cabinet myself. I took a few pointers from my brother, who’s a carpenter by trade, and he’s going to help me with the project. However, it is in my best interest to request the plans from you if possible. I understand about charging for plans, it’s time consuming; I tried the Sketch up method, but my brother found too many holes in the measurements, and few details on how to construct certain parts of the cabinet. Being my first project, I don’t want to waist time and money trying to wing it.
    Please e-mail me with any details you may need to know, and I’ll be more than happy to answer. Again, thanks for the inspiration…

  12. Robert 30 May 2010 at 6:56 PM #

    Donovan, I would be willing to pay for complete 2d directions in a pdf or other format other than sketchup. Could you email me your price so I can go ahead and pay? Thanks!

    • Donovan 31 May 2010 at 9:22 PM #

      I was busier back when I first released just the SketchUp file.

      I’ll put together some PDFs and release it (for free) within the week (before June 6th).


  13. Robert 4 June 2010 at 10:50 PM #

    That would be awesome and help so much! Thank you!!!!!!!

  14. Jeron 6 August 2010 at 2:31 AM #

    Hey Donovan, I recently purchased an HRAP EX Premium VLX arcade stick. My question is with your sketch up can I just add the VLX (as ist abt the same length as 2 TE’s) instead of 2 TE’s? Also, would I be able to swap it out in case a friend came over & then put the VLX back for single player use?


    • Donovan 6 August 2010 at 9:28 AM #


      Congrats on the VLX purchase!

      I currently switch between my VLX XL (home made ‘VLX’ using a real Taito Vewlix 1P panel) and my 2 Mad Catz TEs that you saw in the original design.

      I just recently got a Hori VLX as well. It’s 22.4″ wide according to the Hori website. My Vewlix Tournament Edition design control panel base is 29″ wide. So you’ll have a 6 1/2″ gap to deal with (or live with). I haven’t messed with mounting mine yet (though I’m thinking of a new project based around it), but because it comes with that big board you can mount it to, I assume it’ll be pretty easy to mount to other things as well. One nice thing about the VLX is no buttons on the back, but you’ll want to watch where you have the holes in the cabinet to run the cables though. And I believe the VLX is deeper and taller than the TEs so you’ll have to find a way to accomodate both options.

      Short answers: VLX on Vewlix TE – yes, with gap. Swap control panel(s) – yes, plan ahead for size differences.

      Let me know what you end up doing,

  15. Paul 17 February 2011 at 2:44 PM #

    Hi Donovan,

    I have decided to take a shot on building vewlix cabinet. The use for it is Mame Arcade. You did a great job and not only on your cabinet but also in the worklogs and your how to’s. Excellant and detailed!

    The question I have, has to do with the control panel. I am not planning to use the MadCats TE. I am thinking of either building my own control system or the XArcade TankStick. If I go with building my own do you have or know of any site they may have a control panel layout design? The box portion as for the joystick/button parts and wiring, I have that covered. Looking for control panel design/dimensions. If you do let me know.
    Thanks and Excellant work.

    • Donovan 17 February 2011 at 2:51 PM #

      Slagcoin is a bible onto itself for control panel layouts. Can’t really recommend any other site. I think you’ll find it’s exactly what you’re looking for.


  16. TaZ 14 June 2011 at 10:57 AM #

    Hi Donovan, my name is Franck, I’m a 25 years old french gamer :D.

    I will never thanks you enough for your plans and clever advices u put on this site.

    It allowed me to make a very good cab, just like I would.

    I put an old PC in (with many old games I played when I was young), and my PS3 with SFIV.

    As your demands, I took 2 pictures of that :



    Thanks again for made my dreams true, and sorry for my bad english 🙂

    • Donovan 14 June 2011 at 12:15 PM #

      The glossy red paint job looks great!

      My project was inspired by a Frenchman, so it’s nice to see this go full circle. 😉

      Merci beaucoup,

  17. Deck 22 August 2011 at 10:18 AM #

    I’m working on a cab and have a question: How do you wire the car speakers to the TV or console or whatever?

    • Donovan 22 August 2011 at 10:30 AM #

      What I did was buy a cheap pair of Logitech 2.1 computer speakers. Instead of using the 2 speakers that come with it, I hooked the wires up to the car speakers (and kept the subwoofer in the cabinet). Usually they come with some kind of volume control too, that you can place in reach of your control panel.

      If you’re using a PC then it’s easy to just plug the stereo mini cable into the back of the PC and have sound out. If you’re using a PS3 or 360, you’ll have to do something different. I have an HDMI cable connecting my PS3 to my TV. My TV then has the ability to send the sound it’s receiving through the HDMI cable out through 2 (red/white) RCA plugs. I use a 2 male RCA -> 1 female stereo mini cable and then I can plug the speaker’s input into that.

      If you’re using a component cable, those usually have the red and white male RCA cables as well. Just get a 2 female RCA -> 1 female stereo mini cable and do the same thing.

      I’d recommend looking on Monoprice for any kind of audio cables/adapters like that.

      • Deck 23 August 2011 at 5:05 AM #

        Whoa, a response within 15 min?? That is some top notch service right there. I really appreciate that you put together all this information and are still actively helping people years later with such detailed responses.

        Anyway, that sounds simple enough! I’ll be sure to show you some pics when it comes together if you’d like.

  18. Brandon 1 July 2015 at 7:42 PM #

    6 years later …

    Wondering if your guide is still available? Link is dead. Thanks!

    • Donovan 6 July 2015 at 9:28 AM #

      You’re talking about the PDF plans? I’ve fixed the link. Thanks for letting me know. Too many things are taking priority over my website lately.

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