Vewlix Tournament Edition Worklog 02

It has been 22 days since I posted the very first Worklog. I had hoped to write another post sooner, but the good news is that I’ve been working very hard on the arcade cabinet. A few days ago, I got it to the stage I could play a few rounds of Street Fighter IV on it, and it felt very good. But for now, I shall take a trip back in time to cover:


  1. Router – I made the 45ยบ angles on the side pieces and round top as well as the underside of the control panel using the router. I also used it to route out the moves list compartment in the control panel.
  2. Drill – I drilled holes for the screws, then I also drilled a larger drill bit over the screw holes to create an area for the screw head to make sure they were flush. I did not screw in any screws with the drill.
  3. Jigsaw – I used the jigsaw to finish the cuts where the circular saw cuts meet. I also switched out the blades and used it to cut hardboard and acrylic sheet. I also used the jigsaw to cut away MDF from areas to get my circular saw cut started.
  4. Circular Saw – I used it to make long straight cuts and I adjusted the angle of the blade for edges with angles.
  5. Orbital Sander – I used the sander to sand down areas that don’t meet up properly once they are screwed and glued together. I used multiple grits from low to high to complete sanding.
  6. Level – I used it to constantly double check that everything was lining up perfect and square.
  7. T-Square and Ruler – I used them to draw out the shapes of the pieces on the MDF. The t-square was very helpful for right angles. I used a secondary ruler for precise measurements because, while my t-square has a ruler on it, this one is more accurate and has 32nds of an inch and millimeters.
  8. Clamps – I didn’t have a helper, so I used the clamps to hold the pieces while you I was cutting. I found it very handy to use a straight piece of scrap MDF and clamp it to my piece to guide the circular saw for a perfectly straight cut.
  9. Screwdriver – I didn’t want to strip the screw heads, and I wanted precise control of the screw, so I didn’t use a drill/power screw driver. Instead I just screwed in the screws by hand with a screwdriver.

Not Labeled:

  • Pencil – To actually draw out the shapes on the MDF and hardboard.
  • Sharpie (Black Permanent Marker) – To draw out shapes on the blue protective coating of the acrylic sheet.

Not Pictured:

  • Mitre Saw – Not necessary. I used it for small pieces to make quick straight cuts.
  • Scrap Wood – Placed between clamps to protect my pieces. I also used a straight piece to aid the circular saw for straight cuts.
  • Saw Horses – You need to get the pieces up at working level somehow. I used some crappy bar stools for my saw horses.
  • 3/8″ Nap Roller and Purdy Paintbrushes – I used a 6-1/2″ long roller to paint large areas and brush to paint the areas the roller wouldn’t fit. I brushed first so that the roller would smooth out those areas after.
  • Foam Roller and Paintbrushes – Just like the painting above, I will be using the same 6-1/2″ roller with foam for large areas and sponge brush for smaller areas.

Next worklog: Materials and pricing!

8 Responses to “Vewlix Tournament Edition Worklog 02”

  1. Arnold 7 April 2009 at 12:25 AM #

    From someone who’s sat in front of a Taito TypeX, your cabinet is pretty damn close.

    • Donovan 7 April 2009 at 8:08 AM #


      Of course it decided to just snow here again in Michigan, and I haven’t been able to lacquer the pieces. I’m getting really anxious to get it all put back together again after painting.

  2. Alvaro 22 November 2010 at 11:51 PM #

    Awesome info you share us!!!

    I will start this project very soon I’ve this question, I’m a newbie with woodworking BTW. There are many tools with this factor: Watts, I know means the potency, for your project and for the kind of material we will use, which ones I need to choose?

    Do you have your tools, could you recommend me any brand, Neo, SKIL, Bosch, and the how many Watts?

    I’ll really appreciate that info, It’s very important for me to know that info.

    Once again, Awesome! Congratulations. And Wish me luck.

    Regards from Bolivia

    I will choose a PS3 for my project too, maybe a PC(You know emulators, Naomi, NeoGeo, etc)

    • Donovan 23 November 2010 at 9:30 AM #

      I’m not a very experienced wood worker either, and haven’t tried many different brands of tools over my lifetime.

      I used Black & Decker (the orange tools in the photo – drill and jigsaw) and DeWalt (the yellow tools – circular saw and sander).

      I didn’t pay attention to the watts when I bought the tools, but to help you, I went and found out what they were:

      Circular saw – 15A @ 120V (1800W) also it runs at 5800 RPM
      Orbital sander – 3A @ 120V (360W)
      Drill – 5A @ 120V (600W) also it runs at 1350 RPM
      Jigsaw – 4A @ 120V (480W) also it runs at 3200 RPM
      Ryobi Router – 10A (1200W) also it goes from 0 – 2300 RPM

      So, as a hobbyist, and not someone who takes their tools to a job site every day, any brand should work for you. Just spend what you feel comfortable with, and ask yourself if you’ll ever use it again – maybe you know someone you could borrow tools from.

      Besides brand and amp, a very important thing would be the saw blades, sand paper, and router bits. For the circular saw, ask someone at the store for help on which one would be best for cutting MDF. For my jigsaw, I bought a multi-pack of blades that are intended for use with a variety of materials. You’ll want to find a rough, medium, and smooth sandpaper (the grits get higher as they get smoother) to do your sanding with.

      GOOD LUCK!

  3. Kirby 15 March 2011 at 6:38 PM #

    For those beginners out there, know that you can simply rent tools for significantly less than buying them. So I wouldnt run out and buy a jigsaw for one project never to be used again. Simply rent it from Home Depot or whatever your local lumber mart is.

    • Donovan 16 March 2011 at 9:19 AM #

      Excellent point Kirby!

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